Advice Letters

From and SI, MSP Previous Participants

1999 Summer Institute Participants

  1. Laith Abu-Raddad
  2. Haltuch Melissa
  3. Jeremy Palmer

1999 Monbusho Summer Program Participants

  1. Tonya Matthews
  2. Linwood Muire

1998 Summer Institute Participants

  1. Andy Abo
  2. Aaron Brown
  3. Erica Cline
  4. Tom Flicker
  5. Oscar Hernandez
  6. Robert Irie
  7. Kevin Kavanaugh
  8. Todd Oakley
  9. Karen E. Owens
  10. Greg Price
  11. David Rhoads

1998 Monbusho Summer Program Participants

  1. Greg Baker
  2. Cara Marie Constance
  3. Douglas Vander Griend
  4. Matt Julius

1997 Summer Institute Participants

  1. Linda Joy Brzezinski
  2. Brad Day
  3. A'gota Fejes
  4. S.W. Houck
  5. Darcy Karakelian
  6. Robert Lindeman
  7. Mark V. Martin
  8. Kristina Russell
  9. Adam Smith
  10. Tina Wong

 

1997 Monbusho Summer Program Participants

  1. Mary Anne Brown
  2. Nate Brown
  3. Jennifer Callans
  4. Paul Van Zuyle

 

 



FROM:
Laith Abu-Raddad (SI '99):
Florida State University
Theoretical Nuclear Physics
Host: Tokyo Institute of Technology, Tokyo

First of all congratulations on your acceptance into the SI2000 program. You are about to embark into a memorable and exciting experience that you will recall vividly for a long time. In my case (a graduate of SI99), the program was a remarkable experience. The most fascinating part of the trip was the Japanese culture and its sharp contrast with Western traditions: the people that manufacture excellent transistors like us can be very different from us. Technology is not a monopoly of one culture. The truth is a green concept and nothing is absolute about it. We have to accept that people can have very different views of things that are dear to us and that we cannot draw simplistic comparisons between cultures. For example, we never can decide what is better a group-based or individual-based society?! Surely, the experience in Japan was rewarding for me in realizing that many of the dogmas that I held in my mind were simply not eternally carved into stone. Bask in the Japanese culture. This is not an experience that you can have everyday.

I found that doing research in Japan is not that different from doing it in the US except in the social aspects. The group mentality has been quite surprising for me in a field like physics where scientists are "notorious" of being very individualistic! I was also amazed by the relationship between the students and the advisor and the students among themselves. I felt several times while there that doing research in Japan is like having a family business. The advisor cares about even the personal details of his students and the students treats him as a father.

In practical terms, something that I should have done but unfortunately I have not, is to study Japanese as much as you can before leaving. It will help you greatly over there and it will make the Japanese classes one you arrive more informative.

You will have lots of fun in Japan. You will be treated very respectfully and you will be pampered by JISTEC and your research institute. I have no doubt that my colleagues have already sent you lots of advises about "technical" details of the program. I like to speak to you about the program from a different angle: using this experience as the seed for developing a long-term collaboration with Japanese scientists. I found it very useful in my case to always keep this fact in my mind. Do not forget that this program is only one of many that the NSF offers in Japan, and that for some of these programs participation is a summer program is a prerequisite. I tried to develop while in Japan many ties with Japanese scientists and visited several laboratories and universities for this purpose. As a result of this endeavor, I was able to obtain an invitation from a host at the most prestigious research laboratory in my field. Based on that, I applied for the NSF-JSPS Postdoctoral fellowship and I am looking forward for the possibility of going there this September. So, I greatly encourage you to put the purpose of this program in your mind all the time and to try to take advantage of your presence there to draw up something for the future. Having a glance at the other programs that the NSF offers in Japan might be a good idea to know in more details how this experience can take you even much further that you may think now. Feel free to send me an email if you have further questions. Best of luck!


FROM:
Melissa Haltuch, (SI99)
Ohio State University
Population Ecology of Exotic Mussels
Host: Geological Survey of Japan, Tsukuba

Congratulations on being accepted to the Summer Institute! You will have the time of your life and your hosts will make sure that you are well taken care of.Quick tips for traveling in Japan:

-If the dollar is strong consider getting your travelers checks in yen. This way if the dollar weakens you do not loose money in the exchange.

-Buy a Japan Rail Pass (or two) before leaving the US.

-Plan on spending all of the money you will get from the NSF/JISTEC to see the country and if possible plan on staying a week or two after the summer program ends.

-Expect to use cash and not credit cards. Very few places take them and those that do are usually more expensive.

-If you like hiking spend some time backpacking in the mountains. You will meet some great people and can pay to stay in mountain huts along the way. Need suggestions for places to go? Give me a quick email, I spent two months in Japan after the Summer Institute was over and had the chance to go a few places.

-Plan on climbing Mt. Fuji and bring rain gear!!!


FROM:
Jeremy Palmer, (SI99)
North Carolina State University
Optical Beam Engineering
Host: Electrotechnical Laboratory, Tsukuba

Dear SI '2000 Participants:

It's my pleasure to relate to you some of the unexpected, exciting (sometimes annoying) tidbits from my SI '99 experience in hopes of making yours a great one. My time at SI '99 was spent living at the Tsukuba Kenshu Center, and working at the Electrotechnical Laboratory (ETL).

Let's start with living arrangements. Before I get into specifics about life at the Kenshu Center, I want to say that if I could do it again, I'd choose a host institution in Tokyo. The reason for this is that without a doubt the center of Japanese society, indeed everything that's going on in Japan is taking place in Tokyo. There's simply more to do, more to see, and more to experience. I spent a lot of valuable hours sitting on the bus from Tokyo Eki (station) back to Tsukuba...time that might have been put to more productive use. Now, bear in mind that I'm certainly not encouraging the SI '2000 participant to turn down an opportunity in Tsukuba. Believe me, there's plenty of wonders to discover there too! Returning to the subject, I'd advise a few things for people planning to stay at the Kenshu Center. Number one, plan on some sleepless nights for a few weeks. The Kenshu Center is for all practical purposes a dormitory, complete with loud, rowdy people who like to party until the wee hours (I was occasionally one of them!). In your rooms, you're sleeping with your head next to an air conditioner which toggles on and off incessantly, and I couldn't for the life of me understand how to operate the buttons labeled in kanji (even after reading the English directions!). Also, due to the season, the sun comes up at 4 am, and the curtains are not sufficient to keep the room dark. In light of all that, it's a smart idea to include a light, non-addictive sleep aid with you, and/or a Felix Unger-style mask with ear plugs. Yes, I felt pretty goofy resorting to these measures, but they worked! Second, if you get tired of fish and miso soup for breakfast every day, the 24-hour Family Mart is right around the corner with conventional Western-style breakfast food. I was particularly fond of the coffee rings! Third, be watchful of your things, especially in the shower. The Kenshu Center is host to many elementary school and junior high sports camps during the summer, and things do disappear. I had my razor and toiletries stolen out of the shower on one occasion. Finally, if you want internet access in your room after hours, be sure to contact your ISP before you depart the U.S. for the local access numbers in Tsukuba-Ibaraki prefecture. To log on, you'll need to get a phone card and plug your laptop into the data jack in the lobby pay phone, and be prepared to wait in line!

How about working in Japan? I encourage participants to go on as many professional visits as possible. In my case, I added the most value to my career and to the Japanese Engineering community by making contacts for future collaborative research. My professional visits gave me great opportunities to gain extensive insight into Japanese research efforts in my field, see the country, and forge a lot of new important relationships. Here's where those JR rail passes come in handy! I know they're expensive, but believe me, they are more than worth it! Pick up more than one if you can. I traveled every Friday, and my supervisors at ETL approved of these trips in advance. To arrange visits, I simply sent polite emails to the researchers I was interested in, first introducing myself, then proposing a date and time. They were very friendly in all cases, and were eager to meet with me. Remember to bring omiyage. North Carolina Biltmore wine was my most popular gift. As for my project at ETL, I made some modest accomplishments. You'd be surprised how fast eight weeks go by. So, don't despair if you don't reach all the goals you and your host establish. Unless you have a well-established research plan prior to coming to Japan, you can't expect a lot. Oh, and remember...bring an umbrella! In June & July, it rains ... A LOT!

Finally, let's talk about travel in Japan. Here's my top-ten "Must See" and "Must Do" from my experience:

- Hiroshima...probably the most moving experience of the entire summer
- Nikko and the Toshogu National Shrine
- Kabuki at Kabuki-Za in Tokyo
- Bunraku National Puppet Theater in Osaka ... really incredible!
- Kyoto, especially the onsen public baths ... they were a blast!
- See a Japanese baseball game either in Tokyo or Makuhari-Messe, Chiba prefecture ... try treats like BBQ octopus, Pocari Sweat, and Royal Milk Tea!
- Climb Fuji (BRING WARM RAIN GEAR!!! THIS IS A HARD CLIMB!)
- Host family visit
- Tour the U.S. Embassy in Tokyo ... just call them!
- Rippongi, Ginza depatos, & Shinjuku ('nuff said)

I wish you the very best during your experience in Japan. The SI program is remarkably well organized, and is truly a credit to JISTEC and NSF. In closing, I think the best way to approach your upcoming trip is to make a promise to yourself to take advantage of every opportunity that comes your way this summer. Enjoy yourself responsibly!

Best Regards,

Jeremy A. Palmer
ECE Department
North Carolina State University


FROM:
Tonya Matthews, (MSP99)
Johns Hopkins University
Biomedical Engineering
Host: Toyohashi Univ of Tech, Aichi-ken

I had a wonderful time in Japan.

The only advice I can think of for the program itself (and possibly for the students who will do a little independent pre-stuff) is: some sort of introduction to the culture. not just the calligraphy and music introduction, but an introduction to how the Japanese interact with each other and with foreigners. It is very different from Western culture. There are things that are considered very rude in Western culture which are not considered rude in Japanese culture - such as delving into a perfect stranger's ethnic background, etc. Also the concept of "personal space" is very non-Western because the Japanese have adapted to the lack of it. also the way Japanese, even in language, are culturally required to pay the utmost attention to hosts, guests and visitors and how not returning such is considered a bit rude.

I had a lot of exposure to this prior to my trip because it was interwoven into my Japanese language class. I think a bit of "fair warning" would make this a bit less of a culture shock.

I also recommend those cutesy, cartoonish, mini-tourist books. they seem silly and irrelevant but they were quite informative and made for very light reading.

Best of luck to the program this year,

Tonya Matthews


FROM:
Linwood Muire, (MSP99)
Clemson University
Chemical Engineering
Host: University of Tokyo (Ibaraki)

I had a wonderful time in the Monbusho Summer Program. In fact, I can't wait to return to Japan and revisit the friends I made. Now, on to the advice:

- Definitely buy a Japan Rail Pass through a travel agent before you go to Japan. It is a great bargain, and immensely useful. It can allow you to expand your travel range considerably.

- Bring a souvenir for your host professor. I'd suggest either liquor or something from your university, like a hat or coffee mug.

- Weather: obviously it varies depending on where you stay, but in general expect heat, humidity, and possibly a lot of rain. I was fine wearing the same clothes I wear during the summer in Virginia or South Carolina.

- If you don't know any Japanese before you go, try and learn a bit, such as greetings. People are really receptive when they know you are trying things their way, and you'll learn a lot. If you don't have the time, don't sweat it - the classes during the orientation period will help.

- Eat everything. It won't kill you.

- Be open. Some of the best conversations I had were with complete strangers.

- When in Japan, explore, both literally and figuratively. Take your scientific thirst for knowledge and amplify it a thousand times. Ask a lot of questions. Some things are done in a totally different way in Japan - find out why.

I hope you have a great time!!

Woody Muire
Chemical Engineering
Clemson University

 

 

 


FROM: Robert Irie, (SI '98)
MIT AI Lab
irie@ai.mit.edu

To SI99'ers:

Like most things in life the Summer Institute is what you make of it. You can concentrate on research and get a sense of how real researchers work in Japan, you can blow off work (so to speak) and explore Japan, its people and its culture. Most of you I imagine will find a happy medium between the two which is of course the ideal.

My experience was a little different from most SI98'ers since I did not live in Tokyo/Tsukuba with the rest, but in a company dorm in the middle of nowhere. During the week my life was pretty structured, with long hours of research (I got to be treated like a fellow researcher tho, not as a guest), while during the weekends I would crash at fellow SI98'ers rooms at the Asia Center and have fun. I would of course recommend very strongly to find places in the immediate Tokyo/Tsukuba areas so you can enjoy the full experience SI has to offer, but if that is not possible, I would like to reassure you that you can enjoy your summer with your fellow SI'ers if you so choose; you just need to take the initiative.

No amount of words can convey the sense of how well the SI/JISTEC people will treat you throughout the program. You will literally be spoiled beyond most average Japanese people's wildest dreams. Have fun, explore as much as possible, and hopefully get some meaningful work done!

Robert Irie
MIT AI Lab
irie@ai.mit.edu




FROM:
Erica Cline, (SI98)
College of Forest Resources
University of Washington
( ecline@u.washington.edu)

Here's my advice letter:

You're going to have an incredible time in Japan. A big part of connecting with Japanese people during your stay will depend on how well you learn Japanese. If at all possible, take a short course on Japanese before you leave - I took a conversational course from extension at our university and it made all the difference in the world! Make sure you take time to travel and explore-don't just sit around in the lab out of a sense of duty. Don't be surprised if the interaction with host scientists is not the most productive experience in the world-some people will get lucky and learn a lot and/or accomplish some exciting research, but many of you will get roadblocked by language barriers or other obstacles (i.e. lack of interest from the host scientists in welcoming you in their lab); this doesn't mean that the summer will be wasted! Focus on the opportunities that you have-if the science doesn't work out, travel a lot! Some people in my year were practically adopted by their lab group; others were more or less ignored.

Whatever happens, don't take it personally. Just like in the US, there are lots of different lab groups out there with different dynamics. Again, some of you will get lucky, some won't. I would recommend you try to stay in Tokyo instead of Tsukuba-too isolated! Also, I found that the host family weekend was not that rewarding. Other students had a great time, but I really didn't connect with my host family and felt that my weekend was wasted. Decide for yourselves whether or not to take a chance with it. Can be great, or a waste of a valuable weekend! Finally, let me tell you again to get out and explore: walk around at random in Tokyo (even at night it's a very safe place to walk alone), get out into the mountains and go hiking, get off the beaten path. The Japanese will think you're incredibly brave and possibly slightly insane when they run into you at the top of some obscure mountain, but it's a great chance for some really fun interactions!
Have a great time!

Erica Cline
College of Forest Resources
University of Washington
(ecline@u.washington.edu)


FROM:
David Rhoads, (SI98)
Bioengineering Department
Rice University

Dear SI99 participants-

Well, I hope you are all excited about the upcoming summer. I certainly wish I could go back to Japan again. I was at the University of Tokyo last summer (biomed engineering through the school of medicine). First of all, language was not too bad of a problem in my lab, as most of the folks spoke quite good English. My Japanese was non-existent (as was about three fourths of last summers' participants) so I was relieved. Do try to prepare as much as possible before leaving, beyond knowing a few survival phrases if you have never studied Japanese before. The only time I really felt frustrated was reading menus at restaurants (thank goodness for plastic food displays at a lot of places, and even English menus at some places in Tokyo). However, katakana is probably the most useful at reading menus, signs, etc....

In terms of what to bring, take some slippers (especially guys) since all the slippers over there were about 5 sizes too small. I already knew about "slipper etiquette" but didn't realize that I would have to even change into slippers in my lab. Also, bring plenty of gifts (or omiyage as it is called in Japan), I worried about what to bring and whether to give everyone in the lab something. I would suggest food/candy, since a lot of offices/labs are small, hence not much space for trinkets from your home university (plus, my lab had already been visited by my advisor here at Rice, and received Rice logo stuff). Don't worry if you run out of gifts from home, the department stores in Japan are incredible and have whole sections for buying gifts such as cookies, cakes, etc - and give lots of free samples too!

As far as where to go in your spare time/weekends - see as much as you can. I took two JR rail passes (each one week), personally I think the green tickets aren't really worth the extra money- the seat is a bit wider, but the leg room is no different than in standard class (which I was concerned about for long journeys, since I am tall). Speaking of being tall, be prepared to duck a lot in Japan if you are over 6 feet - through doors, subway cars, entrances to temples, everywhere. I suggest arranging visits to other labs or institutions in areas of interest such as Kyoto/Nara, that way you get to make some professional contacts and see more of Japan! Plan out your stay carefully, because the summer goes by so fast, and some weekends will already be taken up with organized SI events. Finally, be prepared for the heat - Tokyo is hot in the summer (although coming from Houston it was a lot easier for me than others). Plus, folks don't dress near as casually in the warm weather there as they do here (you may want to find someone who went to your host institute in the past to ask dress code questions for work). Have fun, and don't worry about the costs. I was expecting things to be expensive, and just didn't worry since JISTEC gave us enough to enjoy ourselves. Please feel free to send me any specific questions you might have before leaving (drhoads@rice.edu)

David Rhoads
Bioengineering Department
Rice University


FROM:
Greg Price, (SI98)
AGECPHD@aol.com

Dear SI99 Participants:

First of all, congratulations on your acceptance to the program. You will have a wonderful time. I had such a blast that I did not want to go home. I could have stayed for an entire year. I made a lot of good friends and learned a lot. It was an incredible learning experience.

Here is some advice that may not be covered by the NSF handbook. (However, the book is very detailed. Most of the info you will need is in there).

  1. Bring close to $1000 for the first two weeks. The exchange rate has taken a dive, and the US dollar doesn't go as far anymore. I think that things are about 25-30% more expensive with the rise of the Yen against the Dollar. You just don't want to be short of money!!!
  2. Do some traveling and buy a JR Pass. A two-week pass will run you about $400. That is cheap compared with what individual trips all totalled up would cost. I suggest going to Hiroshima and Miyajima Island (really awesome), Nikko, and Toya (up in Hokkaido).
  3. Do as much professional travel as you can. I travelled all over the country, and met some people that I will keep in touch with for a long time. You never know, you may be invited back some time in the future!
  4. Bring slipper/flip-flops that fit and are comfortable. I went with the cheap, 99 cent ones and never wore them because they were uncomfortable.
  5. This one is important!!! Everyone uses email nowadays. So, you will want to keep up with friends, family, and especially important news from your department at home in the US. Set up a free internet based account such as Hotmail and have all of your mail forwarded to that account. Then, you can check mail from your host institute throughout the summer.
  6. Relax. They do an awesome job of coordinating everything. All will go smoothly. Just enjoy yourself and take in as much as you can. When will you ever get the opportunity again to go to another country for two months and have everything paid for? Have a great time!!!

I can't think of anything more now. If you have any questions, send me a message. I was kind of the odd one in the bunch in that I was one of only a few in the agricultural sciences and the only economist on the trip. So, I may have insight on trips to out of the way places like farms and agricultural production facilities.

Greg Price
AGECPHD@aol.com


FROM:
Karen E. Owens, (SI98)
( kowens@mtu.edu)
School of Forestry & Wood Products
Michigan Technological University

Get ready for the adventure of a lifetime! As with most things, you will get out of this experience what you put into it. So, if you are adventurous, willing to try new things, and open to any and all new experiences, you should have a wonderful time in Japan. But I would imagine that just by applying for this program you are already demonstrating some sense of adventure. I wish you the best of luck.

Now for some advice. In regards to the Japanese language training, practice as much as you can before going over to Japan. I know this may be difficult. It was really hard for me because I was very busy right up until I left and it was hard to sit down to do all of the grade school exercises necessary to teach the hiragana and katakana. But truly, the more of the hiragana and katakana you can get down before going over, the easier the classes will be. I managed to make it through, but only because of the great generosity of my sensei. I made little flashcards for all of my characters and they seemed to help me. If you haven't had any sort of Japanese language class previously, you may have to come to terms with feeling rather illiterate while you are over there. But not to worry! Everyone is always willing to help you when you are trying to figure out menus, maps, signs, etc. You will definitely survive. And don't be afraid to try out any Japanese you learn. Everyone always appreciates the attempt, and many times you will communicate successfully.

Okay, clothing. There were some questions from the ladies of last year's group. Between the heat and having to work, what does one wear? I personally wore some nice cotton skirts and short sleeve tops. They were casual but nice looking and comfortable for the heat. And it will probably be very hot and very humid. In Tsukuba, no one seemed to be working anywhere that required formal dress. So khakis, skirts and simple tops should work out. Bring a couple of nice outfits for a few fancy events that you will be going to - opening ceremony, closing ceremony, kabuki, etc. But remember it will be hot! Unless you go up north to some cooler climates, bring clothes that are easy to wash, are cool and don't wrinkle much. And a little note, bring your own deodorant as they apparently do not sell any there.

Do not be afraid to ask your host for a little time to travel. Ask if there are any other offices or research scientists that you can meet in other parts of Japan. My host was very kind and allowed me to take a week to travel during the program. Take advantage of every opportunity you can to travel around. I purchased two JR passes and traveled one week during the program and then stayed a week after to travel on my own. I would definitely recommend doing this. It may be hard to see much of Japan while you are working. And let me tell you, there is so much to see!! I love the outdoors and mountains, so northern Japan called to me. If you like to hike and be outside, head north. And if you can do it, go to Hokkaido. It is beautiful, much cooler and less crowded. Sapporo (located on Hokkaido) is a great city, of course their beer gardens (aka Sapporo beer) are fun. There are several national parks up there that are beautiful. If possible, I would recommend a specific festival to attend. In Aomori, which is located in northern Honshu (the main island) there is the Nebuta festival. It goes on for a few weeks, but the last week is the best. They have incredible parades, and a finale of a huge fire works show. It is supposed to be one of the best festivals in Japan. It was incredible!!!!! You can even participate in the parade. They invite people to dance along. Aomori is a pretty large city also. I could continue going on about all the places you could visit. There is just so much to see. Have fun. The Lonely Planet guide to Japan was a great purchase. It was pretty good with recommending places to stay. I would definitely recommend staying in the Japanese style inns (ryokan) when you travel around. The guide usually has pretty good directions on how to get to them and it will list the least expensive inns. The Lonely Planet was also good at recommending restaurants. Not to mention it describes all of the different types of food well and it definitely does a good job of describing the highlights of most places in Japan.

Let's see, some last general odd pieces of advice. Take flip-flops to wear around, especially if you are in Tsukuba. Be prepared to constantly be removing and putting on shoes. Take nice socks with no holes. If you are in Tsukuba, take a plate and/or bowl and some silverware. There is a small kitchen and refrigerator but not much in the way of dishes and utensils. You may have lots of spare times during the weeks when you work. If you aren't big on going out every evening you should probably bring with you several books to read. We were trading around every book we could find just to have something to read. You may spend lots of time on buses and trains too. Enjoy the Japanese style baths. Someone will tell you about the proper etiquette. The ladies bath isn't so great in Tsukuba, but most inns have nice baths. When you are in the northern country, take every opportunity to use the public baths. They are separated by gender for those who are shy. Some nice hotels and inns that are known for their natural hot spring baths (onsens) will let the public use their baths for about 500 yen. Do it! These places are usually really nice with several different temperature baths - heavenly! Overall, just enjoy Japan and what makes it so unique and different than the Unite States.

Good luck! If anyone has any questions, please feel free to email me, kowens@mtu.edu. Everyone I met over there was really great - those in the program and those that I met everyday. I made some great friends and memories. Have a wonderful time!

Karen E. Owens
(kowens@mtu.edu)
Ph.D. Candidate
School of Forestry & Wood Products
Michigan Technological University
1400 Townsend Drive
Houghton, MI 49931
http://forestry.mtu.edu/students/kowens


FROM:
Aaron Brown, (SI98)
http://eci.ucsb.edu/~asb/

This program was a great experience for me. Before going, I worried about numerous things. I had never been on my own in a foreign country where English is not the primary language. Would I be able to communicate? I am vegetarian. Would I be able to find enough food to eat? It turned out that I didn't need to worry. It's not essential to be fluent in Japanese. With some effort and confidence, anyone can pick up enough Japanese to get by. Once I learned how to say that I don't eat meat or fish it was easy to find vegetarian food. There are many kinds of restaurants. If you don't like Japanese food, there are plenty of Italian and other ethnic restaurants.

Travel:
Get at least 2 1-week JR passes. They are something like 90% refundable, so it's ok if you're not sure if you'll use them. Stay an extra week or so after the program and travel. Go alone, go with friends. It doesn't matter. Japan is very safe, the trains are reliable, the youth hostels are great, and the people are friendly. Buy the "Lonely Planet" guide book before coming to Japan, but don't try to see everything. You'll end up spending half your time on the train. Better to spend more time in less places. It was great traveling, not knowing where I'd be staying until I got there. But I learned quickly that it's also good to make a reservation before arriving in the city you are going to. The Youth Hostels in Sendai were all full when I got there one night.

One place I particularly enjoyed was Towada-ko. A lake, a river, hiking, waterfalls, etc. I also recommend Hokkaido and Hiroshima. Spending an afternoon in the Museum in Hiroshima was well worth while. Go to the beach. I went to a beach in Ibaraki-ken and had a great time. If you are not staying in Tokyo, make the time to go there often. I was fortunate enough to be at the Asia Center in Tokyo. It would have been a pity if I had been staying in Tsukuba and not realized that the night life in Tokyo was well worth experiencing. It was like nothing I've seen before. 4am, you got places packed, streets gridlocked with taxis, and tons of people out and about.

If you hike Mt. Fuji overnight, leave early. It's very crowded. The crowds of people can literally delay you for hours. If you want to get to the top by sunrise, leave the 5th station by 8 or 9 pm. If you prefer to avoid the crowds as much as possible, hike during the day. There is a phone at the top, where you can call your family from.

Planning:
Last spring, when they opened up the mailing list for everyone, people started planning when and who they would do stuff with. People who had only met by email were planning a trip to Hawaii for after the program, and talking about who they would hike Mt. Fuji with, and which weekend. I'd recommend waiting until you are settled in Japan and know your schedule and have an idea of who you want to hang out with before doing this kind of planning. Also, hiking Mt. Fuji, like traveling around other places in Japan, is not somewhere that it's essential to go to with people you know. There were many other gaijin hiking Mt. Fuji, and it was easy to make new friends.

Preparation:
It's not essential, but I recommend getting a head start on Japanese. Learn the hiragana, and probably more importantly, the katakana before arriving. The hiragana is used for words of Japanese origin. Even if you can read it, you have to know what it means. But if you can read the katakana, it's mostly words derived from English and other foreign languages, like supagetti, ramen, etc. It makes reading a menu and other signs easier. Also, buy a pocket dictionary before coming to Japan, the smaller the better, so that you can take it with you everywhere. But don't fully rely on it. One word translations are not always accurate. Don't overwhelm yourself, but do a little reading about Japan so that you have some idea of what's going on when you are there. If you only have time for one short book, read "Dave Barry Does Japan".

Homestay:
Do a home stay. They are not that much of a commitment, an afternoon or a weekend. You get to be with a Japanese family. It's a good experience. Don't worry if you don't speak much Japanese. Despite what Japanese people will tell you, many of them can get by quite well in English.

At your host institution:
Before I went, I had the impression that it was essential to spend a lot of time preparing for my "project" at my host institution. Before leaving America, I asked my host if I needed to do anything before coming and he gave me some papers to check out. I had the impression that I'd be working long hours doing some serious important work. While I did benefit greatly from my professional experience in Japan, it was not at all like I expected. More than anything else, I was there to learn. No one expected me to work long hours or put any pressure on me to get lots of work done. I spent as much time on site visits as I did in the office. My time last spring would have been better spent learning more Japanese than looking up some papers in the library. Of course, some people had different experiences. Some people worked long hours and only had the weekends free. Many others sat at work/lab and did netscape all day, or took lots of time off and traveled.

Bring slides for a talk. You will probably have to give one about your research. Better to prepare for it now, than in Japan with short notice.

I bought a suit for this program. I only wore it once. It was a good idea to have but was totally unnecessary to wear to work everyday. Some people in the program were in companies where they had to wear a suit every day, but most people didn't have to dress so formally. Some people, particularly in university labs, could dress as informally as they pleased.

Hang out with your colleagues. Hang out with other Americans in the program too, but definitely go out often with your Japanese colleagues. You'll pick up more Japanese and you'll have a great time.

Omiyage:
Candy is good. People can share it. You can give it to your Japanese teacher, to people at work, and/or to your homestay family.

Money:
Bring travelers checks. The program gives you money, but I think it took a couple weeks. Bring $1000 if you can. Despite what many people said in the advice letters last year, I think most people had little trouble using up all the money they were given.

Email:
Setup a web-based email account, like hotmail or yahoo, before you leave for Japan. While many people had no problems with email access, my host was not able to supply me with an email account. I could only telnet to read my email at internet cafes in Tokyo that cost 500 yen for 30 minutes, but using netscape to access email was much more convenient.

Misc:
Go out and have a good time. Do concentrate on learning as much Japanese as you can and getting as much as you can out of your experience professionally, but don't let this stop you from going out and having a good time.

Take lots of pictures.

At some of the supermarkets, when you buy bananas, you have to buy the whole bunch of them. You can't just remove one or 2 and buy it. They make you buy the whole thing. I wasn't the only one who made this mistake and had the checkout girl laugh and go back and find the bunch I pulled the bananas off of. I think someone mentioned in the advice letters last year that it's a good idea to bring pictures of where you live and of your family and friends, as well as a map of your home state or just of the US so you can show people where you are from. I didn't take this advice and I wished I had. I don't know how many times I drew a map to show people where Santa Barbara is relative to Los Angeles and San Francisco. If they have a trip to Nikko again this year, go in the onsen.

Don't worry about immunizations. You don't need any. Ok, that covers a lot, but surely not everything. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me by email at asb@eci.ucsb.edu.

Aaron Brown
http://eci.ucsb.edu/~asb/


FROM:
Todd Oakley, (SI98)
Dear SI '99:

First of all, I enjoyed my stay in Japan immensely, the longer I am away, the more I want to go back. The following is my advice to you. I will first concentrate on misunderstandings that happened to me in the hopes that maybe my experience will help someone else. However, don't let it worry you, because hosts will expect and happily tolerate such things. If you are pressed for time, skip 1, 2, and 3, and read "I am glad I:" / "I wish I would have:" below.

1) Omiyage. I bought a bunch of little souvenirs from my University to give to people. I will say that I was very happy to have brought little gifts that had some connection to where I come from. I wrapped them in foil paper. When I gave them to people, they seemed to be surprised by the wrapping paper. So in hindsight, I wouldn't have spent the time wrapping the omiyage. One thing though, I found the Japanese often acted surprised, even if they weren't. For example, one time I told a colleague a fact I knew about the organisms I study. They replied with the common "ohhhhh" that rises in tone, with wide eyes - I usually interpret this as extreme surprise. However, I later found out that my friend actually already new the fact when I told him, so his 'surprise' was probably more cordiality. Maybe people were being cordial and acting surprised when I gave them the gifts, and wrapping paper was not unexpected. Hmmmm.

2) As a US graduate student, I am used to being very independent. My day to day routine mainly affects only myself. My host advisor went to great lengths to plan much of my time for me. I did not expect this, and made some plans on my own before arriving in Japan. If you do something like this, let your host advisor know well in advance that you are making alternative plans. My advisor seemed a bit put off a few times when I changed my plans at the last minute. He told me that the Japanese virtually always make a detailed plan and stay with it.

3) Communication. I spoke English with students in my lab. We built up a vocabulary together - phrases that they knew, I would use. I found that simple present/past verb tenses are easiest for them to understand. They never got "Have you ever done this?" but always got "First time for you?". Be creative, say it a few times in different ways, and if they still don't get it, write it down, that almost always helps. Your lab-mates/colleagues may be a bit shy at first, afraid to try their English, but keep talking, and they become more confident.

I am glad I: had a JR rail pass, had the Lonely Planet Japan Guide, did several homestays, went to see sumo, did all my X-mas shopping in Japan, read "Learning to Bow", practiced using chopsticks before going, watched part of the high school baseball final tournament on TV, tried a lot of different foods. I wish I would have: packed lighter, learned more Japanese before leaving, had time to stay longer, seen Japanese baseball in person, taken more photos, kept a better journal.

Finally I will say that you will be eased gradually into Japan by the SI program. They take care of everything at first, and when you have been there a while, you will feel ready to be on your own.

Todd Oakley


FROM:
Kevin Kavanaugh, (SI98)
KavanaughK@aol.com

Where do I start, ummm practical stuff I guess. But before I do, the whole trip was a tremendous experience-I still go back to Japan and have made many close friends-both personal and professional there. Let me list some items that were helpful to me:

  1. A laptop I borrowed one and it was invaluable in helping me work - particularly because I ran a lot of statistical programs to help my research (that were not available at my host institute in English) and in setting up e-mail with people back in the States.
  2. E-mail, I think it is a good idea to setup a hotmail or yahoo account before going, one of the main concerns was getting e-mail and the more planning by the US scholars the better before arrival.
  3. Books on Japan were good, I would reinforce the need to review and work with the language as much as possible in the US before arrival it really helps. A good rail map and a good subway map of Tokyo are a must and a lifesaver. I also, read some contemporary Japanese fiction to give me a flavor for modern Japan (if you need some of these book titles let me know). As my departure date grew nearer I read Japanese English newspapers to let me know what was happening in Japan from a current events standpoint. Also, I researched and found a guide to festivals in Japan that was truly useful in planning trips to different areas.
  4. The rail pass is a must at least a 7-day pass saves a lot of money and helps push some of the folks to get out to see greater Japan rather than just Tokyo.
  5. Clothes light weight - one suit was enough with multiple pairs of good dress slacks and shirts.
  6. Gifts - I brought four or five and then brought in cookies or snacks from different places that I visited for my office. I think something special for your main host is appropriate.
  7. Money was adequate as long as you paced yourself throughout the trip.
  8. Food was great and for me it was one of the special features of Japan.

Overall, I would recommend to go out by yourself or in small groups and discover Japan. I would recommend a Fuji climb by yourself-I joined or was adopted by a Japanese High School Group making the ascent and it was really special. I visited Hiroshima for work and pleasure and Miyajima about 15 minutes south both places are very powerful in different ways. Hiroshima, with its Peace Memorial and Atomic-Bomb Dome and Miyajima with the Tori-gate in the ocean and the lovely temple that floats on the tide (I was there for the summer fireworks and it was great). The many memories I have are different to categorize but getting out was the key and that is where the personal safety factor in Japan really helps. If I can be of any help to new SI folks please let me know and share with them my e-mail, I make frequent trips back to Japan and would be glad to help out in any way. Thank you NSF for making a dream come true.

Kevin P. Kavanaugh
KavanaughK@aol.com


FROM:
Oscar Hernandez, (SI98)
Michigan State University
Animal Science Dept.
hernan59@ pilot. msu.edu

Advice Letter:

Do not panic or worry too much about every tiny detail concerning your trip to Japan. This is going to be a GREAT experience and a GREAT opportunity, especially if this is your first time traveling overseas. Some of my recommendations are:

Follow the schedule, and do things on time according to the e-mails from the NSF office on things such as :

Get a Japan travel guide, this will give you some ideas about palaces you want to visit, and some general information about Japan. Also do some search on the Internet about Japan. Once you can e-mail other IS99 participants, get in contact with them also.

Try to memorize (if you have the time ) the Hiragana and Kanakata symbols. Use index cards. Do a home visit or home stay, to me that was one of the most interesting experience while in Japan. I still keep contact with my host family , and plan to visit them in a near future. I also learn first hand how to make a real good sushi. If you have any questions or concern, feel free to contact me via e-mail. Enjoy your time in Japan!

Oscar Hernandez
hernan59@ pilot. msu.edu



FROM:
Andy Abo, (SI98)
Univ. of Calif., Berkeley
Electrical Engineering
Host: Hitachi Central Research Lab, Kokubunji City (Tokyo)

Important things to bring to Japan (no particular order):

Advice:

  1. Break away from the "gaijin herd" occasionally. Walk around by yourself. Have NO FEAR! Violent crime is extremely rare, so you can't wander into the wrong part of town. Try to meet some natives. The JISTEC staff are very friendly.
  2. Spend all your money. You'll have plenty, so don't be a stinge! That money is earmarked for fun in Japan, not so you can pay the rent in America.

You can check out some photos from my trip:
http://kabuki.eecs.berkeley.edu/~abo/photos/japan/

Have fun! (You will.)

Andy


FROM:
Tom Flicker, (SI98)
tmflicke@mtu.edu
Department of Chemistry
Michigan Technological University

Dear SI99 Participant-

First, congratulations! You are about to embark on the experience of a lifetime.

If you're stressed about going to Japan for 2 months, don't worry about it - most everyone is. I was expecting Japan to be this totally different place, and life as I knew it would be turned upside-down. Not true. While Japan was a very different place, it was also a very comfortable place.

Almost anything you can buy in the states you can buy in Japan.... it just might cost more. Yes, even Skippy peanut butter and Fruit-Loops can be found if you look hard enough. I encourage eating as much Japanese food as you can, but sometimes when the cravings hit...

Below are a few informational items that were helpful for me last year. Hopefully they will help you with your stay in Japan.

  1. Buy JR passes before you go. I bought two one-week ones, which worked out well for my schedule and allowed me to travel both north and south. Travel as much as you possibly can, and meet as many people as possible. I was able to take a week off work to travel north (Hokkaido is wonderful and full of adventures!), and then after the program a friend and I stayed one week and traveled south. It was great splitting it up this way - so you didn't have to live out of a backpack for 2 weeks straight!
  2. Keep a journal. Stick in it postcards/tickets/stamps of things you see and do (you can also use print-club to document your friendships!). It makes it much easier when you get back to help remember details and what was where.
  3. Draw up a detailed plan/calendar for your time in Japan. Keep track of how you actually spend your time - don't waste all your time studying. Get out and find an adventure!
  4. Bring omiyage that is of personal relevance to you. I gave out things from my hometown, from my university, and some fancy chocolates. What the gift is is not so important, but if it has some meaning to you others will love it.
  5. Be sure to eat LOTS of ice cream in Japan. Hershey has some to-die-for chocolate/ice-cream/waffle bars that are awesome. One a day will help keep you a happier person.
  6. Try to be sensitive/aware of the Japanese culture. While you may not know all the 'social rules' (I know I didn't!), at least try to be observant of those around you and try not to be the clumsy American.
  7. Finally, Tsukuba people had the MOST fun. If you want to live in Tokyo and have long commutes to work and spend all your money on eating, that's fine. If you want to experience a more relaxed 'small town' Japan, Tsukuba is where it's at! We went to Tokyo to VISIT almost every weekend though. J

Have a BLAST!

Tom Flicker
Ph.D. Candidate
Department of Chemistry
Michigan Technological University
1400 Townsend Drive
Houghton, MI 49931
tmflicke@mtu.edu


FROM:
Cara Marie Constance, (MSP98)
Department of Biology
University of Virginia

Dear Monbusho Group '99, I'd like to begin by saying that my experience in Japan was absolutely fabulous in all respects. I went to Japan with very little knowledge of the language, and without any preconceived expectations, and that was definitely the way to do it. It was a productive research time for me, but I had a lot of time to enjoy the culture as well. So here are a few tips that I hope will help you out! Research project I was fortunate in that my prospective host visited my university 4 months before I went to Japan, so I was able to sit with him and discuss face-to-face what I would work on. It is really important to decide what you will work on before you get there. Not only does this help you to have a productive time, but interacting with people in your lab is one of the best sources for really experiencing Japan. The people who didn't work in their labs very much didn't become as close to their labmates, and I think my experience was greatly enhanced by the many friends I made at work. "Housing" This is a big one - you absolutely need to know about your housing before you get there. Make sure that your host has found a place that is acceptable to you - what I mean by this is that if you don't want to share a room/ bathroom with others, make that clear. Also, find out how much your housing will cost. There was a great diversity in what people were paying for their housing, even though we all got the same fellowship amount to get us through the two months. Make sure you have A/C or you will suffer! Clothing Japan in the summer is HOT and HUMID. Since I live in Virginia, it was bearable, but still uncomfortable. Bring very light clothing and definitely bring a handkerchief - you will know why once you get there. You may also want to bring twice as much deodorant as you might expect to need. As for the dress code, people in my lab were pretty casual (jeans, T-shirts) so I dressed casually as well. You may want to ask your host what is appropriate.

Other than that, definitely bring a good pair of walking shoes, rain gear, and if you are planning to climb Mt. Fuji, bring a winter coat, gloves and hat ( a flashlight is also helpful). Week One When you first get there, you will have a FANTASTIC week in a gorgeous hotel with the other Monbusho students. Take advantage of this week to make friends. I was at the University of Tokyo, and many students got in contact with me and crashed on my floor when they visited Tokyo. Getting to know the other students and where they are staying will give you a free place to stay when you travel around the country. Travel Buy at least one, one-week Japan Rail Pass. Even if you only use 3 days of it, you will get your money's worth and then some. Many people chose to travel during the 2 months of the program, but I stayed an extra 10 days and traveled then. This worked very well, since I was able to see a lot of Tokyo and surrounding areas during the program, without taking a lot of time off work, and was able to see a lot of the country afterwards.

Cara Marie Constance
University of Virginia
Dept. of Biology


FROM:
Douglas Vander Griend, (MSP98)
dvg@nwu.edu
Chemistry Department
Northwestern University

You have much to look forward to. You will never be able to predict everything that will happen to you and that is one of the most wonderful aspects of the experience. I list some priority advice:

A summary anecdote: One evening near the end of my week of travel, I trained it all the way to Hokkaido (upper island) to the town of Hakodate only to find a festival in full swing. Not even my lonely planet guide had prepared me for this. The fireworks had just finished, and I couldn't walk two blocks before a large group of partiers forced me to join there grill fest. amazing. I still have too many pictures of that episode since one of the better looking Japanese woman got a hold of my camera. Unfortunately, it all ended abruptly when too guys came to blows. All this before I even checked into the hostel and encountered another group of people, but that is yet another story.

Douglas A. Vander Griend dvg@nwu.edu

Douglas Vander Griend
Chemistry Department
Northwestern University
2145 Sheridan Road
Evanston, IL 60201-3113
(847) 491-4228
dvg@nwu.edu


FROM:
Matt Julius, (MSP98)
Center for Great Lakes and Aquatic Sciences
The University of Michigan
First congratulations, this will be one of the best experiences during your graduate education. It is difficult to expound on specific items that may be useful during your visit. I made a number of friends and contacts in my field that continue to be valuable in my work. This is the most important thing to remember while you are in Japan. Monbusho is going to give you a lot of money to live on while you are there. The temptation will be to spend it on CD players and cameras. I did not do this and it was the best choice I made. What you should do is buy a rail pass and travel like crazy. The Japan rail pass is an extremely good value for visitors and you can afford to go places much more easily than Japanese citizens. It might have been difficult for some of you to have found a host (or you might still be looking for a host), but once that person is identified and you get to know them ask questions. They will know everybody in the country working in your field. Set up visits, and your host will be happy to help you, and use that rail pass to go see other scientists and their labs. You may not get back to Japan for a long time, or if you do it doesn't hurt to have friends. Take this time to meet as many different people in the field as you can. I can't emphasize enough how this will pay off in the future.

Matt Julius
Center for Great Lakes and Aquatic Sciences
501 East University
726 Dennison
The University of Michigan
Ann Arbor, MI 48109-1090



FROM:
Greg Baker, (MSP98)
My trip to Japan was much more rewarding than I ever thought it would be. Some of the things I think that I did to make it more interesting were: To explore, several times I would take a bike from our lab and just ride it out into Tokyo and see what I could find. I also took several train rides out into the countryside. The Lonely Planet gives a pretty good guide. See as much as you can. A Japan Rail pass is an excellent thing to buy right now, before you go. Try different foods. You never know what you might find. Visiting other universities or companies was a big addition to the experience. Watch out for bean ice cream!! Be adventurous.

Greg

 

 

 


From: Paul Van Zuyle, MSP97
UC Santa Barbara
http://www.ncgia.ucsb.edu/~vanzuyle

OK, here goes:

  1. Gifts ("omiyage"). I worried about this a lot, and brought quite a bit of nice stuff. It's not really necessary, though, unless you know someone has a special desire. My host told me that a good gift is food, since it can be shared, enjoyed immediately, and won't collect dust in already-overcrowded Japanese houses. When my footlocker showed up at my host's lab at Kyoto U., several people asked "is it wine?" quite hopefully. (The baggage agent had mistakenly labeled it "foreign alchohol", when it was really full of books. Bummer!)

  2. Language (Nihongo). Start now! But forget trying to learn the hiragana right away, unless you're serious about learning Japanese for the long term. What you'll need when you get there are conversation skills. While the one-week crash course given on arrival was a lifesaver, I was behind the curve all summer. My Berlitz book and CD were useful as soon as I stepped off the plane.

    In my computer-science lab, few grad students spoke much English. Sometimes we resorted to email, even if we were sitting right next to each other. Most younger Japanese can read English far better than they can speak it. Older people I encountered, such as my sponsor at Kyoto, could speak much better.

  3. Giving talks. I used a lot of slides with text, since I figured they could be read better than my spoken words could be understood. That seemed to work. Be prepared with something you can present on short notice. After a couple of talks, I was presented with a small honorarium. The amount, however, is not discussed beforehand (a protocol explained to me by my host).

For more anecdotes, see my web page I made last summer for friends at home: http://www.ncgia.ucsb.edu/~vanzuyle/japan.html


From: Brad Day, SI97
The University of Tennessee
Department of Microbiology
Knoxville, TN 37996
braday@utkux4.utcc.utk.edu

Hello all SI 98ers.

First, congratulations on being selected to participate in what is going to be the greatest summer many, if not all of you, have ever had. Hold on. Enjoy the ride. Beware the Triangle! Below, I have listed a few "key" points/hints/suggestions. Read them. However, regardless of what we all tell you, do what YOU want to do. This is your summer. Make of it what you wish. Send me a post card!!

  1. Beware of Triangle 20, and any and all of its bastard cousins. This is a popular drink in karaoke bars(i.e. Tomato Head, located near Kenshu Centa). This my friends is industrial alcohol. The Japanese have a cute name for a hangover called a 2-day drunk. Would you say a kick in the head is cute? Have fun, but bow at its mighty power.

  2. Celebrate the 4th of July. The Kenshu Centa has a roof, and the Family Mart sells fireworks. Nuff said.

  3. Eat Pocky.

  4. Drink Pocari.

  5. Learn how to say Domo Arigato Goziamashita. Say it often!!

  6. This will drive you nuts until you finally figure it out: When you go into a convenience store, the clerks say "Irasshaimasete". This means welcome.

  7. Take gifts, but make them personal. No, not lacy underwear. The Japanese love alcohol, but they can buy it there. Take them something from you home.

  8. Do a home visit!

  9. Do a home visit!

  10. Travel. You will be given a FREE ticket to a place on the other side of the world. Take advantage of it. Buy a Japan Rail Pass(or 2) before you go. If you dont, youll regret it.

  11. Visit the places youve heard of, but explore the places you havent. Youll be surprised.

  12. Climb Mt. Fuji, but dont do it in a typhoonmy mistake.

  13. Learn to speak the language

  14. Be nice to your sensei. Chances are, they are all attractive, but spoken for!

  15. Dont worry about money. Dont bother Randy about it.

  16. Dont worry about anything! The more you worry, the more you worry.

  17. Spend every penny they give you. You will have to work hard to do this, but it can be done.

  18. Make at least one new Japanese friend for every 3 American friends you make. Tsukuba is a University and technology. A lot of students who are as curious as you.

  19. Take a lot of your own deodorant. It is not popular in Japan, and it IS expensive. It will be hot and humid there.

  20. Kanpai. Enjoy yourselves. Send me a postcard.


From: Adam Smith, SI'97
Boston University
acsmith@bu.edu
Fellow SIer,

By now you've probably read through many little advice essays, and you're probably pretty sick of reading the same dozen or so things over and over again (e.g., "You gotta climb Fuji!", "Make sure to learn the kana,", etc.). To ease the boredom you're suffering, I'm going to try to include some little snippets of advice that I don't think anyone else will touch on. I'm sure I won't be completely successful, but I guarantee there'll be at least one or two things in here that you haven't heard yet.

Things I learned the hard way:

MONEY: When NSF tells you to bring cash or traveller's cheques, they mean it. Don't plan on getting cash off your credit card, because you can't. Visa is NOT everywhere you want to be, and Jerry Seinfeld doesn't film American Express commercials in Japan.

FOOTWEAR: Buy a pair of 99-cent flip-flops before you go. Then, when everyone else is trying to fit into the tiny little Japanese-foot- sized slippers provided by the Kenshu Center, you can pad around in comfort and style.

UMBRELLA: Bring one. Japanese umbrellas are either expensive (for a good one) or crappy (for a cheap one).

TOWEL: Bring one. You can buy one there, but it will be thin and scratchy.

LAUNDRY DETERGENT: Buy it there. Have a bunch of people chip in for a community box. Otherwise you'll wind up with a lot of leftover detergent in August.

CLOCK: Tokyo-area electricity runs at 50Hz instead of 60Hz. A clock plugged into the wall will only run 5/6 as fast as it should. Bring a battery-powered clock.

Things I figured out for myself:

PREPARATORY READING: Read _Dave Barry Does Japan_. This is the single most useful book you can read, and it's pretty funny, too. In my opinion, nothing else comes even close to being as useful.

DEODORANT: The Japanese apparently do not perspire, because they neither buy nor sell deodorant. So bring your own.

NUTRITION: Bring along a bottle of multivitamin supplement tablets, like Centrum or something equivalent. This will relieve some of the pressure of eating unfamiliar foods, since you won't have to worry quite so much about whether you're getting enough of everything. ("I don't want to eat that squid eyeball, but if it's the only available source of vitamin K...")

SHOPPING: The Japanese government is going to give you a _lot_ of money. You'll have trouble spending it all. If you try to bring the extra money home, you'll find yourself on the wrong end of a rather harsh exchange rate. Solution: Do all your holiday gift shopping in Japan. You'll be able to give everyone cool Japanese gifts for Christmas (or whatever), and you won't spend the whole month of December stressing out about holiday shopping.

Enjoy the summer. You're going to have a blast.


From: A'gota Fejes, SI97
Virginia Tech

Hi SI98,

Congratulations! You will have a marvelous experience in Japan.

I have a couple of suggestions:

My experiences:
If you have any questions write to me.

Good Luck.


From: Mary Anne Brown, MSP97

Notes to future Monbusho Summer Program participants:

My visit to Japan went beautifully in part because I spent much time before I left (before I even applied) making contact with potential Japanese hosts. I had four potential hosts lined up, and although I ultimately had to choose one to work with, I had the opportunity to travel to meet and do field work with two of the others. If you have the chance to write to or, even better, to speak with your host, you can get some idea of how much of a barrier language will be. You cannot expect to learn enough Japanese from scratch to communicate on scientific matters with your host, but at least you can learn enough to say all of the polite things that the Japanese say to each other. Two months was enough to make connections with Japanese scientists and see some Japanese geology (horrible exposure - too much vegetation to see much!), but not enough for me to get any real research done. If you're far enough along in your research, bring slides or overheads and be prepared to give a talk.

If possible, try to have your host set up an email account for you before you arrive.

The one place where I really wished I was able to understand Japanese better was in restaurants! There is often plastic food in the window, and on several occasions I stooped to dragging the waitress outside and pointing. However, that can limit your choice of restaurants. Perhaps you will be braver than I was and just point to something on the printed menu and hope you don't get uni or nato. If I were going back soon, I would study the kanji for different foods. Menus usually don't have the hiragana.

Have faith that you will have enough money.

I heard stories of Monbusho participants trapped in the lab all summer. Don't do it! Japanese culture and American culture are vastly different. Living in Japan for two months can provide you with a wonderful opportunity to step back and look at your own culture. I was in a Mr. Donut having an early morning cup of coffee during my second week on my own in Japan, feeling quite overwhelmed by the difficulty of having to think about my every action and how it would be interpreted in the Japanese cultural context. And "Brandy", that horrible American song from the 70's, came on the radio. (You know the song - 'Brandy, you're a fine girl...') I just started to cry because it was so familiar. At that point I decided that I would stop trying to fit in and accept that at some level I could not escape my "Americaness". After that I was able to observe Japanese culture and my own behavior in a much more detached fashion. While in many ways Japanese society can seem rushed, the Japanese often take time to do things carefully, consciously, in ways that Americans don't. And while I like to think I am a careful scientist, I had definitely lost some consciousness of the world outside of my office. It may be a cliche, but is there anything more important in life than smelling roses? That's an easy thing to forget when you're in grad school.


From: Jennifer Callans, MSP97
Jcallans@bun.L.chiba-u.ac.jp
Chiba University

Dear SPJKers,

The most important points I can think of:

  1. Buy JR passes. I bought two one-week ones, which worked out well for my schedule and allowed me to travel both north and south of Tokyo (I was at Chiba University). Travel as much as you possibly can, and meet as many people as possible.

  2. Keep a journal. And stick in it postcards/photos of things you see and do (you can also use print club to document your friendships!). Most of you are not social scientists, as I am, but even so, this will be a good thing to have when your time in Japan is done. It's also nice to ask people you meet to write a short entry in your journal (in whatever language is most appropriate).

  3. Draw up a nice, detailed plan/calendar for your time in Japan. And keep track of how you actually spend your time, once you're there.

  4. If you intend to study Japanese, also draw up a plan/calendar for that, and keep track of what goals you reach. I had a private tutor the summer I was here, and that helped enormously.

  5. Bring omiyage that is of personal relevance to you. I gave out things from the anthropology dept. of my university (I'm a sociocultural anthropologist), and people I met loved having something that was not only a souvenir of my Univ., but also of my dept.

Enjoy!


From: Darcy Karakelian, SI97
Stanford University

All in all, I had an incredible summer and felt that the Summer Institute Program was extremely well organized. I was definitely not 100% prepared for a lot of the things I encountered in Japan and in my host lab, but I think that the ability to deal with the unexpected is part of the experience of working in a new country. In terms of certain cultural traditions, customs, etc. I felt that the Summer Institute did prepare us well before we came to Japan. In terms of the language, I personally would have been in trouble if I had not taken a beginner Japanese class prior to going to Japan. Hoever, this was because I lived with a non-English speaking family, only three people in my lab spoke English, and I wasn't able to participate in the Summer Institute's language training other than the first week. But perhaps the one thing that most significantly contributed to my positive summer experience was my lack of expectations coming into the summer and my flexibility. The ability to be able to step back from your usual way of life and adjust to new ways of living and communicating is really important. Also, everyone in the Summer Institute had a completely unique experience so I would recommend reading some of the advice from previous years, but taking it with a grain of salt.

I think I was very fortunate to have experienced Japan first-hand by living with a family. My host family was terrific and toward the end of the summer, I almost felt like I was part of the family (or as close to it as is possible in Japan). I was very frustrated at times with my famly because I had very little privacy or independence. My family was very overprotective and I do not think that they realized that I understood them as well as I did sometimes. About two weeks into my stay, I was feeling very smothered by my lack of freedom and the tight family structure. For example, dinner was at 7pm. everyday. I was torn between working late and being home for dinner. I think I managed a good balance eventually. However, at the end of these first two weeks, I realized that things in Japan were just a lot different than I was used to. To make the most out of my situation, I had to just really appreciate what I had rather than what I didn't (i.e. independence). This attitude change helped me to enjoy my family a lot more. The rest of the time with them was great. I would highly recommend doing a home stay if you get the opportunity.

Regarding my work, the biggest problem of the summer was not having a defined project. Somehow I was given one when I got there, but it was constantly being pushed off and instead, I was kept busy reading papers, meeting people, and just doing a lot of independent reading. Part of the reason why I never had a concrete project was because there was only one scientist in my lab that I could really work with and he was really busy all of the time. I was also not far enough along in my own education to just pick up things on my own. However, in two months, it would have been hard for me to make a dent in the project anyway, so I was better off just learning as much as I could. I would recommend bringing work from home in case you do have spare time to fill.

I found that meeting people in Japan was far more valuable than actually doing concrete work. I went on many site visits. Some were set up by my host laboratory, some by my advisor from home, and some by myself. These meetings were by far the highlight of my summer and I would encourage lab visits for everyuone, regardless of whether they are relevant to your specific field or not. I got the opportunity to meet most of the top scientists in my field and just recently received an attractive invitation to go back to Japan and use their data for my Ph.D thesis. This invitation came from one of the labs that I had visited, not my host lab. For me, the people I met in Japan made up for my lack of work.

Most importantly, travel as much as you can and try to see as much of the country as possible. It is a beautiful one!


From: Mark V. Martin, SI97
Stanford University
Manufacturing Modeling Lab
Thornton 207
Stanford, CA 94305-4021
Phone: (650) 723-7409
Fax: (650) 723-7349
mvmartin@leland.stanford.edu
http://www-mml.stanford.edu/

INFORMATION FOR SI'ers

If you're stressed about going to Japan for two months, don't worry about it, most people are. However, once you get over there and get settled in, you begin to realize that you are part of an amazing opportunity. You are given two months in another country to learn the language, culture, and research. This is something that once you are working full-time, you would generally never have the chance to do. Good luck. Below are a few informational items that might help you with your stay.

** FOOD **

- Gioza shop on corner across from Big Echo (you can only get'em one way, so its easy to order!)

- red roof Ramen shop past the Tomato House

- Okonamiyaki shop on second floor of building next to Tomato House

- Shakeys, underneath the Dai-Ichi Hotel near the bus terminal

- Denny's (take a left on Higashi Odori, down about a mile) - this will come in handy about the 6th week when you get a craving for pancakes or French Toast (sorry, though, no Grand Slams at this one)

** TRANSPORTATION **

- BICYCLES - the ones they supply will get you from point A to point B. If you are tall you might want to buy a seat extender at the Bridgestone bike shop (take a right on Higashi Odori). Cost is about 1200 yen. Also, buy one can of 5-56 (Japanese WD40) for the whole group so you can lube up the gears.

- TRAINS - get JR passes before you leave (around $260 for a one week pass; or you can get a two week pass for less than $520). Also, for a mere $90 extra on the one-week pass you can get a Green pass (basically business class). A little more comfortable and gives you a little better chance of getting the exact train you want (especially during Obon week). I would say live it up a little and get the Green pass. One issue is that arises is not knowing how many weeks you will be traveling, and not knowing whether to get a two-week pass, or two one-week passes. The risk comes in the form of a 10% restock fee if you don't use the ticket. You be the judge.

- BUS from Tsukuba will take anywhere from 50 minutes to 2 hours, depending on traffic.

- RENTING a CAR - unlikely that you will need to or want to rent a car. If you do, get an international drivers license before you leave (check at AAA). There is a car rental place close to Kenshu Center.

- AIRLINE - Airline reservations: if you want to change your airline or routing (to stop somewhere else in Asia, or Hawaii perhaps), you may be able to do it for free based on seat availability. Don't deal with the NSF travel agency for this. Take the ticket directly to the airline and change it. It's easy to change since it's a govt-issued ticket. You can generally change the airline to any US-based carrier.

- CROSSING THE STREET - look left and die.

** SIGHTSEEING **

- MT. FUJI - to climb or not to climb! Either way, you will have made the right choice! Bring cold-weather clothes (sweatshirt, warm hat, long pants) no matter how warm it seems at the bottom. Bring sunscreen and gloves (for warmth and to keep your hands from getting scuffed up on lava rock). Large groups will get separated so expect to end up climbing with only 2-3 people. On weekends, it may take anywhere from 14 - 17 hours to go up and back down the mountain (with some time for R&R at the top), so choose your companions well :-) I would start by 7:00 pm and definitely by 8:00 pm to ensure you get to the top by sunrise (approximately 4:30). HAVE FUN, it can only be described as a true bonding experience (kind of like boot camp). Also, if you buy a Fuji stick to help you climb the mountain (costs around $10 and you have it branded at the various stations), you generally won't be able to carry it on the plane back to the US, but you will be able to check it with the rest of your luggage.

- KAMAKURA - this is an excellent day trip to see the Big Buddha made over 700 years ago. I would suggest getting off on the Kita-Kamakura stop and taking the 1.5 hour hike to the Buddha (it was really pretty and the weekend we went we saw just a handful of people on the trail).

** MISCELLANEOUS **

- Average lifetime of trash in your hand or pocket will be about an hour (public trash cans in Japan are few and far between - it seems like they have more vending machines than trash cans).


From: Linda Joy Brzezinski, SI97
UC Berkeley

Hello SI98ers.

Congratulations on being accepted into the program, and good luck. I could go on for pages and pages about what a great experience going to Japan was for me, and how incredibly nice to me everyone was, but I'm afraid I would never stop. Also, you are going to find out for yourselves soon enough. Instead, I'll try to focus on a couple of practical matters.

I was glad I brought along pictures of my family and friends. My co- workers and the families I visited during homestays found them fascinating. I regretted that I hadn't brought a US map to point out locations. Also, if you get a chance to do a homestay this year, just do it. I always carried around a pad of paper to draw pictures, write down new words, write down addresses of new-found friends, etc. It's better than scraps of paper because now I still have it as a reminder of my trip.

I am vegetarian, so this was a concern for me as I planned my trip. I ended up doing alright. I'm sure many of the noodle dishes I had were made with fish stock, but I couldn't taste it and it didn't bother my stomach, so I went with the flow. I'll spend the rest of this note on food, especially vegetarian, so if you're not interested, just skip to the next advice letter.

First of all, sushi does not mean raw fish. It is a name for sweet rice stuck together with rice vinegar. They put other things in, and often it's raw fish, but not always: Kappa Maki is cucumber, Oshinko maki is pickle (pickled what, I'm not sure, but it's vegetarian and my favorite), Kanpyo maki is marinated gourd strips, futo maki CAN be vegetarian... it is a "big roll" with vegetables, egg, and sometimes crab. It's sliced, so just look for an incriminating pink strip and you'll know. Inari sushi is sushi rice wrapped in a thin piece of fried tofu. Another winner!

The next easiest things to find are noodles. Soba is buckwheat noodles and udon is like a thick spaghetti. They can be served hot in a soup, and in the summer a common dish is cold soba with a salty soy-like dipping sauce, and maybe tempura on the side. Tempura is vegetarian except for shrimp (ebi), and most restaurants are happy to leave this off and make it "yasai dake" ("only vegetable"). The hot soba and udon dishes can have meat, but the following do not: sansai soba (or sansai udon; sansai is "mountain vegetable"), kitsune udon (or kitsune soba; kitsune means "fox", but the favorite food of the fox is supposed to be thin strips of fried tofu, so that's what this is), and tempura udon (or tempura soba, as long as it is "yasai dake" tempura). Be careful about ordering tamago (egg)...you could well end up with a raw egg in your noodle dish.

Okonomiyake is a great omelette-like food. Unfortunately, it usually has meat. The okonomiyake place near the kenshu senta in Tsukuba has a few vegetarian varieties...plain, cheese, and another one...maybe onion.

A few more "don't miss" - Dengaku tofu (broiled tofu with a miso paste on top...I've also had the eggplant version, dengaku nasu, yum!); agedashi tofu (batter fried tofu); and of course, mochi! Yakisoba (fried noodles) are also good, but sometimes are made with pork, so be careful.

CHINESE FOOD SERVED IN JAPAN ALL HAS MEAT!
Ramen noodles are always in a pork-based broth, unlike the Japanese noodles.

Okay, I promised this wouldn't be too long, and I lied. For more info on Japanese vegetarian food, contact me (linda@intlweb.com), visit your local Japanese restaurant, or consult the following:

Itadakimasu!


From: S. W. Houck, SI97
Stanford University

  1. The homestay was a blast - do it.

  2. Don't even think of climbing Mt. Fuji at night on a weekend in August.

  3. Scuba Divers: there's a great dive shop in Tokyo down the little road that borders the AM/PM near the Asia Center. Formosa Dive shop. I took a one day, 2 dive trip with them that was the best. Email me (shouck@leland.stanford.edu) for more details.


From: Nate Brown, MSP97

Dear MSP participants,

I am a mathematics student who went to Hokkaido Univ. this past summer (MSP '97).

I am not going to tell you stories about my summer vacation (in fact, my one regret about this past summer was that I worked too much and didn't take the time to see more of Hokkaido).

What I am going to tell you is what a wonderful chance you have to study with (different) scholars in your field. I never expected that simply being in a different place could be so stimulating for research...but it was! New people means new ideas, new approaches and new areas of expertise. I personally benefited tremendously from the expertise of my host scientist as he introduced me to a concept which he is an expert in (but which my advisor here at Purdue was not very familiar with) and it turned out that I was able to use this new concept to prove a theorem which I had been working on for quite some time. This has now become my first paper and will probably comprise a substantial part of my thesis. I truly believe that I would still be working on that theorem if my host had not given me some new tools to work with.

I also benefited from being around my host scientist's students. Actually, I hope to work with one of the students I met in Hokkaido on a joint project in the future. It was very nice to talk to new faces about mathematics. Again, I learned lots of little things from these informal discussions as everyone thinks a little differently and your thought process eventually grows stagnant if you always discuss things with the same people (with this in mind, I could easily write a page about how my mind was opened on various cultural differences between the east and the west...but plenty of people have already covered this issue).

In short, let me say that you should spend some of that money that Monbusho will give you (there will be plenty!) to experience Japan, see things you may never see again, etc. However, you should also keep in mind that this is a unique opportunity to interact with new people in your field, learn their techniques, share thoughts and become a better scientist. Good luck.


From: Robert Lindeman, SI97
PhD Candidate
The George Washington University
gogo@seas.gwu.edu
http://www.seas.gwu.edu/student/gogo/

My major area is Computer Graphics, specializing in Virtual Environments. I was matched with The National Laboratory for Bio-Science and Human-Technology in Tsukuba, and lived at the Kenshu Center. I had completed about a year of Japanese just prior to leaving for Japan.

In looking back to the GREAT time I had in Japan, some things stick out in my mind that I think might help you.

Here are some tips about places to eat in Tsukuba, near the Kenshu center. The "Red-Roof Rahmen" place (as we called it) is really good and cheap! The gyosa (dumplings) are excellent, and they even have extra-large bowls of rahmen for hearty Western appetites. Talk to the three *large* cooks behind the counter in English...they love it! Cross the street and go up stairs and back to the left and there is a great Okonomiyaki place (kind of make-it-yourself Japanese dinner pancakes). If you look clue-less (like we did), then they will show you how to make them. The menu is in Japanese, so take someone along who can help you order...BUT DON'T BE TIMID! There is a Gyosa place across from the Big Echo (karaoka place) called "White Gyosa". We had mixed reviews, but I personally like the ones at Red-Roof better, and the beer is REALLY expensive!

There is a place called "Casual House" one block past White Gyosa. This is an izakaya (small dishes served in a casual environment). As you walk in, they will yell "Irasshyaimase" at you, then show you to a Japanese-style table. This place is good, and by the end of most meals, we were yelling "Irasshyaimase" too, whenever anyone new came into the place! Lot's of fun! They have pictures on the menu of everything, so it's easy to order, even with no Japanese.

Oh, I almost forgot. One of the main "discoveries" that many of us made in Japan was Edamame. These are soybean pods which are served hot and salted. You eat them by speazing the pods and "popping" the soybeans into your mouth (don't eat the pods). You can get them at any izakaya, Sushi place, Yakitori place, etc. Even FamilyMart has them for your late-night cravings. We used to buy them there, and nuke them back at the Kenshu Center. Mmmm! This is a MUST!

Well, that's about all the ranting I can give for one day. I had a great time in Japan. I travelled, learned some (more) Japanese, did some research, made some research connections, ate, drank, and relaxed.

I'd be happy to talk to anyone who has questions. Just email me at: gogo@seas.gwu.edu

--- _/ _/ _/ _/ * Robert W. Lindeman, Research Fellow
_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ * SEAS - GWU
_/_/ _/ _/_/ _/ * email: gogo@seas.gwu.edu
_/ _/ *http://www.seas.gwu.edu/student/gogo/
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ * http://www.lindeman.com/


From: Tina Wong, SI97
UC Berkeley

Hi SI98er! Here is my advice:

  1. Spend *all* (or more) the money NSF and JISTEC give you. Why bring back a couple hundred bucks to US? I wish I wasn't so stingy to myself.

  2. Learn and speak as much Japanese as you can. Don't be shy.

  3. Go to department stores and try all the sample foods. It is fun, free, and rather interesting when you don't know exactly what you are eating.

  4. Don't just go to "tourists attractions". Go to one of the bigger *residential* neighborhoods in Tokyo and walk around. I found it somewhat amusing to see the houses, supermarkets, small shops, and eat at the restaurants, etc. Just get off at a busy train stop after work and follow the crowd.

  5. If you are wondering whether to climb Mt Fuji... Let's say it is not your normal hiking experience. It was very crowded when we climbed, nothing much to see, very tiring, etc. Don't climb unless you are physically fit, and beware of high altitude sickness.

  6. Two months can go by *very* quickly. Plan ahead on what you want to see and do, and do them as soon as possible. Don't be like me, I ran out of time!

Have fun! I wish I can go back again! I miss Japan so much!


From: Kristina Russell, SI 97
kmr9d@virginia.edu (if you have any questions)

My advice to the 1998 program participants follows:

Congratulations for being chosen for the 1998 Summer Institute Program! I realize that you will be given a lot of reading material before you go to Japan, so I will try to give you the main points about my experience in the 1997 program briefly. I lived in Tsukuba, so my advice may be more relevant to those who will be staying there.

  1. My summer in Tsukuba was one of the best experiences of my life. Approach new situations with an open mind and you will be fine even if you don't speak Japanese already. Don't worry if you have trouble communicating. Japanese people won't resent you for it. Just try your best and everybody will love you.

  2. Don't worry if you don't have any idea what you are going to do with your host for a project. I had a bit of trouble communicating with my host about exactly what I thought we should work on together, so I ended up mostly observing his graduate students and technicians and tried to learn some new equipment (I worked on air sampling at the National Institute for Environmental Studies). It ended up working out great for me because now I am applying to NSF for a grant to go back there and work with my host on my dissertation stuff. So even though I didn't get a project completed this summer, I still feel like I fulfilled one of the goals of this program which was to get American and Japanese scientists working together. Some of my friends in the program did manage to get a lot of work done, which was great, but don't feel guilty if it doesn't happen. Remember the goals of the program.... It's also very hard in nine weeks time to take language classes, make professional visits, and do a project (not to mention exploring the culture), so do what you can and have fun with it. I only made one professional visit, but I feel like I bonded more with my host because I spent more time in his lab.

  3. The Kenshu Center (despite what other people might say) is a decent place to live. It is strange to be bathing with strangers all the time, but that's the only really weird thing, and that's Japan anyway, so its a part of the culture. Being on the 5th floor is great and it kind of reminded me of being an undergraduate in dorms. Everyone was always cooking together or getting ready to go out together after work. It was a cool experience. Be ready to make some friends.

  4. The Kenshu Center staff is awesome and will help you out whenever they can. Also NSF and JISTEC people are great. Don't hesitate to contact them if you have a problem.

  5. Things to do:

    If you like climbing, definitely climb Mt. Fuji! It is an extremely different experience and is well worth the struggle of making it up there. Leave early (7 p.m.) so that you can make it up to the top in time for the sunrise. There might be back ups of people which might prevent you from making it all the way up in time. Also if you feel spirited enough after staying up all night, climb all the way to the bottom instead of to the 5th station. There are no crowds and lots of cool shrines, graveyards, etc. on the way down. I did it alone and was fine (didn't get attacked like you might worry about in the US).

    Definitely climb Mt. Tsukuba. I rode my bike there (the one supplied by Kenshu Center) and although I got a flat tire, the experience of getting it fixed was rewarding (ie. I succeeded in getting it fixed). The view from Mt. Tsukuba gives you a bit of perspective about where you are living. You can see Tokyo from there on a clear day.

    Buy a rail pass before leaving the US and travel around. This is the cheapest way of seeing a lot of Japan. I went all the way to Hiroshima and it was fantastic. After the language classes, (which have by the way great teachers) it is easy to get around on your own. You can also elect to stay an extra week or two after the program and travel around then.

    Go see the Ushiku Buddha. It is the tallest statue in the world (3X the Statue of Liberty) and is about 1 1/2 hours by bike from Tsukuba. It's right in the middle of a cornfield, so it is very cool looking. If you ride your bike there, stop at Que Sera Sera coffee shop which is hard to miss on a rural road on the way there. The owner never sees foreigners and was so excited when I went in there.

  6. Things about work:

    In my host's lab, lunch was from 12 to 1 p.m. exactly and tea time was from 3 to 4 p.m. exactly. No work is done during that time, except for by the secretaries that serve tea and snacks. If you go anywhere interesting, try to bring back some snacks for the group indigenous to the area.

    I had my butt touched by a man walking down the hall one day at work (I didn't know him) and didn't say anything to preserve the whole "face" thing. This is probably in your best interest if this happens to you because it could be embarrassing to his lab group or whatever. I know in the US it would be OK to haul off and slap him, but I refrained to respect their culture somewhat. In Japan, women are still supposed to be subservient (so to speak) to men, so it's best not to criticize if you think women are being put down in some way. That's just the way it is. If you are an American woman, you are likely to get a bit more respect for some reason anyway (at least this was my experience).

    Definitely go out with your host in the evenings for beer and socializing. It is likely the whole lab group will go and if you stay semi-sober and everyone else gets drunk, you will realize a whole other side of the Japanese people.

What I had intended to be brief became a novel. There are tons of other experiences I could share, but I'll refrain. Whatever you do in Japan, try to enjoy yourself! The experience can be so rewarding! I'm sure everyone will find their own niche there. Good luck!

Kristina M. Russell
Department of Environmental Sciences
Clark Hall
University of Virginia
Charlottesville, VA 22903
USA

(804) 982-2967 (Office)
(804) 982-2300 (Fax)
kmr9d@virginia.edu

 

 


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